Tips from American Kennel Club

First Aid

Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog’s nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog’s chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.

Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.

Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog’s mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog’s nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.

Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog’s heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog’s ribs.

External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don’t worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.

Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge. Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.

Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.

Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.

Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.

Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog’s temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you’re treating your dog.

Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison). Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.

Seizures cause a dog to losee control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won’t hurt himself, but don’t try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.

Bee and Wasp Stings can be painful and frightening for a dog.

Follow these procedures if your dog is stung:

    * Carefully remove the stinger with tweezers, if possible. (Only bees leave stingers.)
    * Make a paste of baking soda and water and apply to the area.
    * Apply an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain.
    * Comfort the dog until the pain has diminished.

Usually a single sting does not present a serious problem. If the sting is on the nose, mouth or around the head, watch your dog carefully to make sure that any swelling does not interfere with breathing or swallowing. If the swelling increases dramatically just a few minutes after the sting, see a veterinarian immediately.

Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.

If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog’s first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.

Canine First Aid Kit

We recommend keeping the following items on hand in case of emergency. Ask your veterinarian to explain the proper use of these items.

    * Syringe
    * Gauze Pads
    * Adhesive Tape
    * Co-flex
    * Hydrogen Peroxide
    * Cold Pack
    * Ipecac Syrup
    * First Aid Spray
    * Liquid Styptic
    * Antibiotic Ointment
    * Hydrocortisone 1%
    * Magnifying Glass
    * Scissors
    * Tweezers
    * Latex Gloves
    * Cotton Balls
    * Iodine Swabs
    * Stretch Gauze
    * Muzzle
    * You also may want to include:
    * Liquid Activated Charcoal
    * Aldroxicon
    * Diotame
    * Rehydration Tablets
    * Sting Relief Pads
    * Aluminized Thermal Blanket
    * Tourniquet

Poisons

Due to their natural curiosity and their tendency to consume anything they come across, dogs are at a high risk for accidental poisoning. Store all poisonous substances in your home, garage, and yard out of reach of your curious canine. If you suspect your dog has ingested a poison, call your veterinarian at once. The longer the poison is in the dog’s system, the more extensive the damage. These are some common poisons and their effects:

Insecticides and paraise medication. Flea and tick sprays, shampoos, and collars, and worm medications must be used according to directions. Signs of overuse of these chemicals are trembling and weakness, drooling, vomiting, and loss of bowel control.

Rodent poisons. Most rat poisons thin the blood so it is unable to clot. Making the dog vomit (ask your vet how to do this) before 30 minutes have elapsed will usually get rid of most of the poison. Poisons containing strychnine, such as those used for gophers, can cause rapid death.

Acids, alkalis, and petroleum products. Vomiting should not be induced if these products have been swallowed. You can give antacids - approximately two teaspoons per five pounds of body weight - to temporarily counteract acids. For alkali ingestion, use one part vinegar to four parts water, and administer as you would antacids.

Antifreeze. This sweet-tasting substance can leak out of parked cars, leaving an inviting puddle for wandering dogs. It is extremely toxic to dogs, even in small amounts. Call the veterinarian immediately. To prevent accidental ingestion, use an animal-safe antifreeze in your vehicles.

Common Household Poisons

    * Acetaminophen
    * Antifreeze and other car fluids
    * Bleach
    * Boric acid
    * Cleaning fluid
    * Deodorants
    * Deodorizers
    * Detergents
    * Disinfectants
    * Drain cleaners
    * Furniture polish
    * Gasoline
    * Hair colorings
    * Weed killers
    * Insecticides
    * Kerosene
    * Matches
    * Mothballs
    * Nail polish and remover
    * Paint
    * Prescription medicine
    * Rat poison
    * Rubbing alcohol
    * Shoe polish
    * Sleeping pills
    * Snail or slug bait
    * Turpentine
    * Windshield-wiper fluid

Poisonous Plants

May cause vomiting and diarrhea:

    * Castor bean
    * Soap berry
    * Ground Cherry
    * Skunk Cabbage
    * Daffodil
    * Delphinium
    * Foxglove
    * Larkspur
    * Indian Tobacco
    * Indian Turnip
    * Poke weed
    * Bittersweet woody
    * Wisteria

May cause vomiting, abdominal pain and/or diarrhea:

    * Almond
    * Apricot
    * Wild Cherry
    * Balsam Pear
    * Japanese Plum
    * Bird of Paradise bush
    * Horse Chestnut (Buckeye)
    * English Holly
    * Black Locust
    * Mock Orange
    * Privet
    * Rain Tree (Monkey Pod)
    * American Yew
    * English Yew
    * Western Yew

May cause varied reactions:

    * Mescal bean
    * Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
    * Sunburned potatoes
    * Rhubarb
    * Spinach
    * Tomato vine
    * Buttercup
    * Dologeton
    * Poison Hemlock
    * Water Hemlock
    * Jasmine
    * Loco weed
    * Lupine
    * Matrimony Vine
    * May Apple
    * Moonseed
    * Nightshade
    * Angel’s Trumpet

May act as hallucinogens:

    * Marijuana
    * May cause convulsions:
    * China berry
    * Coriaria
    * Moonweed
    * Nux vomica
    * Water Hemlock

Evacuation Tips

Whether it’s wildfires, tornadoes, hurricanes or floods, severe weather can mean immediate, sudden evacuation. You and your family may be forced to leave your home quickly to get to shelter or higher ground. Sometimes, you may have a few hours notice, and sometimes you may need to move more quickly.

If you live in a disaster-prone area, you may already have an evacuation plan for your family. But have you included your dog in that plan? Many shelters, including the Red Cross, do not accept pets (except service animals).

Here are some tips to prepare for an immediate evacuation.

Plan ahead

Remember that most emergency shelters do not accept pets. Call hotels in your area and in surrounding states to inquire about their pet policies. Once you’ve located a few hotels that will accept pets, write down the names, addresses, phone numbers and driving directions. Make sure to include alternate driving directions in case roads are blocked. If you can’t find a hotel, ask friends in the surrounding areas if you and your dog(s) can stay with them.

Microchip or tattoo your dog

Permanent identification is the best way to ensure a lost dog will be returned to you. Contact AKC Companion Animal Recovery for more information. AKC/CAR keeps a database of alternate contacts in case you are unreachable. If you plan to stay with out-of-town friends or family during an evacuation, use those names as one of your alternate contacts.

Assemble a disaster supply kit for your dog.

Take this kit with you should you need to evacuate. Include:

    * Leash and collar with ID tags
    * Current copy of vaccination records
    * Any medication your dog needs and written directions for dispensing medication
    * Photocopy of AKC registration papers and a copy of your dog’s enrollment papers for AKC/CAR
    * Recent photo
    * At least a three-day supply of food and bottled water. Don’t forget your dog’s dishes!
    * Blankets and bedding
    * Crate with a few toys
    * Plastic "pick-up" bags

First Aid Supplies Redditch Article

More and more we hear about the dangers of nuclear explosions and atomic fallout. While it's important for us to learn all we can about atomic fallout, it's equally important, if not more so, to learn about first aid supplies and atomic fallout. Fallout is a term used to describe leftover radiation from a nuclear explosion. It's given this name because the radiation "falls out" from the atmosphere where the explosion took place. It may refer to the radioactive dust that comes as a result of a nuclear explosion. It becomes radioactive contamination, which can cause food chain to become contaminated. Because this fear is something that can become a reality, it's imperative to know about first aid supplies for atomic fallout.

Although first aid kits and first aid supplies may be similar in most emergencies, they may all be slightly different as well, depending on the circumstances. For instance, first aid supplies for atomic fallout may be slightly different than first aid supplies for an emergency inside the home because in the home you will have most of your normal surroundings. However, even when stocking your first aid supplies for atomic fallout, you will still need the basic first aid supplies.

Basic first aid supplies will consist of bandages, elastic tape, gauze, antibiotic ointment, hydrocortisone cream, Ace bandage, antiseptic wipes, ibuprofen and emergency telephone numbers. It's important that you always have a first aid kit in your home as well as your car. Giving emergency medical car can make the difference of an injury not becoming more serious. Often injuries where bleeding has occurred can turn into a serious injury if bleeding is not stopped. Blood clot spray or powder is an important item to have in your first aid supplies for the home as well as your first aid supplies for atomic fallout. This will force the blot to clot, which can prevent excessive bleeding, complications and possible bleeding to death.

In the case of an atomic fallout caused by nuclear explosion, chances are you will not have power, telephones or any of the necessities you normally have in your daily life. First aid supplies for atomic fallout should consist of flashlights (more than one), a few sets of batteries, portable radio, a fully stocked first aid kit, and canned goods. Not only is it important that you have a first aid kit and first aid supplies for atomic fallout, but it's also important that each family member know where these things are located. Many families do a "mock drill" similar to tornado drills that take place in schools. This is to assure that everyone in the family know what to do and where the first aid supplies for atomic fallout or, even a normal emergency, are located. This can make a difference of life and death.

How to harness your infant:

• Read the entire child safety seat manual.
• Your baby's head should be at least 2 inches (6 centimeters) below the top of the safety seat.
• Infant-only seats are usually designed with a 3-point or 5-point harness. The harness should always be placed in the slots and should always be at or below your baby's shoulders. Most models have a chest clip that holds the harness straps together. Move the clip so the top of it is level with your baby's armpits.
• All harness straps should fit snugly, especially over the shoulder and thigh areas. Straps should always lie flat, never twisted. If you can pinch any harness webbing between your fingers, it's too loose.
• Dress your baby in clothes that keep his or her legs free. This will allow you to buckle the latch crotch strap properly between the legs. If it's cold outside, harness your baby first and then cover him or her with a blanket (never cover your baby's head). Never buckle a blanket under or behind the baby.
• If your baby slouches to one side in the seat (common among newborns), place rolled-up cloth diapers or rolled hand towels on each side of the shoulders. There are supports specially designed for car seats, but only use them if they came manufactured with your safety seat. Never place any kind of padding or blanket under your baby — this can affect the harness's ability to restrain your little one.
• If your baby's head flops forward (also common with newborns), check the angle of the seat. Use a towel or blanket to tilt the seat back slightly (a 30- to 45-degree angle is best).

How to Install an Infant-Only Seat

Prior to installing your baby's infant-only seat, read the product manual thoroughly. These tips can help with the installation:

• An infant-only seat should be placed in the back seat, ideally in the middle of the back seat, but most important, in a position where it fits securely.
• Read the owner's manual for your vehicle to find out how to use its seatbelts with a child safety seat.
• Use your knee to push down on the seat as you tighten the car's seatbelt through the belt path. The car seat should not move more than 1 inch (3 centimeters) from side to side or forward and backward at the belt path. If the seat wiggles or moves on the belt path, the belt needs to be tighter.
• Some seatbelts may require a special locking clip designed specifically to keep the belt from loosening. Locking clips are available from baby product stores, safety seat manufacturers, and some car dealerships.
• Be sure to check the tightness of the safety seat before each use.
• Never use an infant-only seat in a forward-facing position.
• The car seat should recline at no more than a 45-degree angle.

Guidelines for Choosing a Safety Seat

• Choose a seat with a label that states that it meets or exceeds Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 213.
• Accept a used seat with caution. Never use a seat that's more than 6 years old or one that was in a crash (even if it looks OK, it could be structurally unsound). Avoid seats that are missing parts, are not labeled with the manufacture date and model number (you'll have no way to know about recalls), or do not come with an instruction manual. If you have any doubts about a seat's history, or if it is cracked or shows signs of wear and tear, don't use it.
• If you accept a used seat, call the manufacturer to find out how long they recommend using the seat and if it was ever recalled. Recalls are quite common, and the manufacturer may be able to provide you with a replacement part or new model.